East Java Province is an area that cannot be separated from the history of the Indonesian state. As the birthplace of several heroes, the province of East Java is very thick with inherent culture.
One of the most prominent and characteristic cultures of the people of East Java is the traditional clothes of East Java. Traditional clothing from this province is indeed used as a symbol for the integrity of the culture of East Java itself.
Interestingly, many people are still preserving these traditional clothes as their identity. This makes its cultural integrity still strong and not eroded by the current of modernization. Generally, this East Javanese traditional dress is used when there is an East Javanese traditional wedding ceremony by the bride and groom.
But not infrequently in some areas also still use these traditional clothes even though not at formal events. One of them is Madura, where the area east of the city of Surabaya is still very strong and so obedient to traditional norms.
East Java Traditional Clothing
If you only pay attention at a glance, you will surely think that this East Javanese traditional dress has quite a lot of similarities with the traditional clothes that are owned and worn by the people of Central Java.
This is because the geographical and historical locations of East Java and Central Java intersect with each other. However, despite having many similarities, there are still some things that distinguish the two types of traditional clothing.
The first is in terms of style, as is clearly seen, the pattern of Central Javanese traditional clothing is more dominant in symbolizing the values of etiquette and upholding the values of etiquette and politeness. This is clearly in stark contrast to the traditional clothes owned by East Java, which are more dominant in highlighting the value of firmness that remains simple and still upholds ethical values.
The second difference lies in the equipment of the clothes themselves. The accessories owned by East Javanese traditional clothes are so diverse and quite unique. Among them are a head covering (odheng), a watch chain, a stick (sebum dhungket) and also a shawl that is slung over the shoulder.
Characteristics of East Java Traditional Clothing
The general characteristic of East Javanese traditional clothing is that it has a very beautiful design and is very beautiful to look at. For more specific characteristics are found in each of the types of traditional clothing itself.
Types of East Java Traditional Clothing
For the types of traditional clothing, East Java province is indeed very diverse. Here are some types of East Javanese traditional clothes that you need to know:
The first is Odheng Santapan which is a complement to traditional clothing in the form of a cap or skullcap. The Odheng, which is used as an outfit for traditional East Javanese clothes, is used on the heads of men and has a typical East Javanese batik design.
The motifs used are also well-known motifs such as the Telaga Biru motif or what is commonly called the Storjoan. This cap or skullcap is triangular in shape with a size that can be adjusted or measured according to the size of each person’s head circumference.
For those of you who have a head circumference that tends to be wide, then of course you need a longer batik cloth. This also applies to smaller head circumference sizes which will require less batik cloth.
This type of odheng is already very typical in the East Java area, especially for the Madurese community.
In terms of form, between odheng fine dining and odheng tapoghan have little in common. The main difference is that the shape of this odheng tapoghan does not have a cloth covering in the middle. So the shape of this odheng tapoghan is only limited to a circular cloth like a headband.
However, what is unique about this traditional East Javanese dress is that the level of erection of the petals of the odheng part also turns out to have a philosophy. Its meaning is to show the level of nobility.
So, the more erect the petals of the odheng, the higher the degree of nobility. For the motif itself, odheng tapoghan takes the motifs of soga, flames and flowers.
Still about the headgear, it turns out that East Java does not only have odheng dinner and odheng topoghan. because in fact, East Java still has another type of head covering, namely udeng which is a typical traditional dress from Ponorogo. Udeng ponorogo also has another name, namely udeng wulung or udeng warok.
For the people of Ponorogo themselves, the mention of udeng only applies to headbands. Meanwhile, if it is mentioned udeng wulung and udeng warok, then what is meant is a headband that is typical of Ponorogo but has a unique shape and style.
The original udeng in Ponorogo is generally black with a white motif as wide as a finger, and is located on the edges and in the middle.
This type of East Javanese traditional clothing is one of the most familiar and easy to remember by the public. This outfit consists of two forms, namely a black outer shirt and an inner shirt in the form of striped shirts in red and white or red black.
As for the pants, they are loose pants with a length that reaches the ankles. The ordered clothes from Madura are already very well known both nationally in Indonesia itself and among foreign countries.
Previously, this traditional clothing was only worn by indigenous Madurese. However, after going through various times of development, now Madura orders have been widely worn by people throughout East Java. This is what underlies the patenting of orders into traditional East Javanese clothes.
The materials used in the past were Chinese cloth, but in order not to be out of date, it was modified using Tetoran material which was deliberately designed by the indigenous Madurese.
When wearing this traditional dress, it is usually accompanied by several accessories such as a headgear, katemang belt and also a plaid belt. This traditional clothing also has its own philosophy, namely loose clothes that describe the nature of the Madurese people who really value freedom.
Meanwhile, the striped inner t-shirt shows how strong the Madurese are, are brave and have a warrior mentality.
Sarong material is also included in the East Java traditional clothes that are most often used. If you look at the name, this sarong is made of cloth. The fabric used is usually a type of silk fabric, and the sarong on the attachment is made of cotton.
Of course, still pay attention to the quality of the high-quality fabric so that it provides a comfortable feeling when worn. For the color used from the sarong itself, you can choose it in a variety of ways, but the color that is most often used is a striking color such as golden yellow for example.
But not infrequently sarong also chooses white as the basic color and combines green or blue boxes as additional motifs. The size can also be adjusted according to the size of the body of each individual.
These sandals or footwear are accessories that are no less important as a complement to the identity of East Javanese traditional clothing. However, these sandals are more dominantly worn by women, although sometimes they are also worn by men when needed.
This traditional accessory in the form of sandals is also known by another familiar term, namely terompah, because of its open shape and loose at the ends when it is worn. So these accessories will really add to the beauty of the appearance at the bottom corner of the bride and groom.
Not only that, the sandals are also equipped with clamps whose function is of course to clamp your toes. Traditional sandals made from quality cowhide and processed in such a way will make you comfortable when wearing them.
Not only sandals and head coverings are used as complementary accessories for East Javanese traditional clothes, because apparently there are other accessories, namely belts. This belt, which is a traditional belt from East Java, is very familiar and is known as the katemang raja belt or katemang kalep.
When compared with the existing belts in general, this typical belt from the province of East Java has a shape that tends to be wider with the front detail equipped with a pocket. This pocket is used as a place to store money.
The material used for this belt is cowhide. However, what is used is good cowhide and not an arbitrary type. Usually the leather used is plain brown without any designs and patterns.
When you hear the word mantenan, for people who are native to the island of Java, they will immediately focus on the meaning of marriage. Yes! Indeed, the name of this East Javanese traditional dress refers to the clothes that are often worn at weddings.
This Javanese mantenan clothing is worn when the bride and groom are carrying out a wedding procession using East Javanese traditional procedures. There are still many people who preserve this traditional dress by still wearing it when getting married.
As a complement, wearing this traditional dress is also accompanied by various other complementary accessories such as odheng, sling cloth, watches, chains, jasmine flowers, sticks and several other accessories.
The pattern of the mantenan clothes for both men and women is the same, namely by using a black base color and combined with a red motif as a decoration. However, to be able to keep up with the times, the traditional mantenan clothes are slightly modified according to current fashion trends.
Because of its close geographical location, it is not surprising that this mantenan dress is slightly influenced by the culture in Central Java. So when viewed at a glance, it will look quite similar to the traditional wedding clothes of Central Java and Jogjakarta.
The next East Java traditional dress is the kebaya rancongan. Which is a typical kebaya from the Madurese tribe which is more dominant in using red, green or blue colors with a cut pattern that follows the body shape of the wearer.
This means that Madurese women really appreciate the beauty and beauty of their body shape. Therefore, it is not surprising that Madurese women take care of their beauty and take care of them by drinking traditional herbs since childhood.
This Madurese traditional dress is usually mixed and matched with several batik sarong motifs. Among them there are lasem motifs, Strojans or even veils. Not to forget they also added a stagen or in Madurese odhet which is tied around the entire abdomen.
Not only that, because it turns out that Madurese women are also very fond of wearing various accessories and jewelry that have large sizes to support their appearance. Among other things, gold comb which has another name for comb comb or dinar comb, earrings, gold necklace in the shape of corn kernels and many others.
You must have often seen clothes or t-shirts with red and white stripes, right? It turns out that this shirt is a traditional Madurese clothing called Sakera shirt.
The clothes, which are usually worn with loose black pants with additional accessories, namely headgear, sarong and belts, are generally worn by Madurese men as daily clothing or for official events.
The red lines have their own meaning, namely showing the firm attitude of the Madurese people, and confirming that they have a high fighting spirit in dealing with everything.
Kombor pants are pants typical of the people of East Java which are unique and loose and have a special sewing technique. This East Java traditional dress is said to be native to the city of Ponorogo which is often used as a pair of gothic clothes.
Another characteristic possessed by these combor pants is that it is located at the waist which has a drawstring made of lawe material with the ends hanging down. Of course, this form of pattern will add elegance and courage to the wearer.
Cak and Ning’s Traditional Clothing
The last type of East Javanese traditional clothing is called cak and ning traditional clothes. Why is it so named? Because this traditional dress is usually only worn when there is a Cak and Ning contest.
This contest is like a contest that comes from other regions. Such as Abang None, kakang senduk, bachelor dare and many others. For cak or young men, wear a cap or beskap coat, tiger nails in a beskap pocket, with a finger on the bottom, a red handkerchief, and wearing a tarpaulin for the feet.
As for the teenage girls, they wear a kebaya with the same jarik bottom, plus a lacy veil which is only draped over the head as a cover.
Don’t forget to wear additional accessories as a complement, such as earrings, bracelets, sandals and scarves which will certainly add to the excitement of this traditional dress. Until now, the cak and ning contest is still there to maintain the hereditary traditions of the people of East Java.
Those are some types of East Javanese traditional clothes that are so unique and interesting to know. Each of these traditional clothes and accessories is full of high cultural values as an identity.
And the added value of these traditional clothes is a unique and inherent characteristic that has not been eroded since time immemorial. Let’s preserve it together so that we can maintain the cultural integrity of the Indonesian nation.